Actually it pauses at high speeds more often than low speed. A 622 mm circumference wheel is very, very, small, with a radius of about 100 mm, which is not your typical bicycle wheel. And if so, do I need the speed sensor and cadence, or would the gps in the 935 record speed too? You’re lucky. And on GCM you’re going into the ‘Add device’ option as well? Yes its up to date and the speed sensor 2 is now in the list but it doesnt find it. Is it worth the upgrade to this new sensor? On the Edge x30 series (530/830/1030) you can disable it though. Starting with the speed sensor box, it’s grey – like the weather outside my window here in Amsterdam: Inside here’s what you’ve got after shaken onto a table. They were made to be used with Garmin devices specifically (and not other apps). Thought if turning off GPS battery life of the Fenix would be greatly extended (already use an external HRM strap and Bluetooth is off) after couple of rides, I can say that my new Speed Sensor 2 is NOT working with my Polar Vantage M, but producing rubbish (switching between real speed and 15.7 kph every second). I thought it would also sync in the background automatically (without a need to open the app actively). In particular with changes in cadence (e.g. In any case, can you clarify what apps you used to try to connect to the Garmin sensor, where it failed? Gravity is just a curvature of space-time. I remember having occasional issues also with RWGPS (speed missing in some rides) but not sure who the culprit is. C = π*d → C = π*508 → C = 1595mm. Of course, you can always go wake up the sensor and sync it whenever you want. The get the data to Strava. Though, seeing cadence issues at 180RPM isn’t unheard of, and frankly affects but a fraction of 1% of people out there. So you might run afoul of the first one, since in theory the sensor could come loose and drop off. You’ll end up with your bike upside down, outside of your bunker of a parking space, in the rain just because you’re worried that any weather protection will somehow prevent your phone from uploading rides, rotating the wheel to keep the sensor awake and repeatedly disabling and enabling BT on your phone while hoping that Connect can sync more than one ride at a time (hint: it won’t). I cover all the units to buy (and avoid) for the 2020-2021 indoor training season. Wheel diameter was in the sensor correctly. The only downside is that if you use that around-town bike a lot each day (as we do), then it frankly kinda muddies the water a bit (again, you can turn it off if you want). How can I solve the issue? Maybe those reports are user error, defective units or apps, Android/iOS needing updates. Just one thing: please don’t ride 59.1mph on your cargo bike, with or without your children in it . Oh, and typically I don’t release in-depth product review threesomes all at the exact same second on this site. (It is subject to sensor failure, which happens rarely.) – when i start the ride back home in the evening the morning ride is synched to GC properly Here’s that data set: In addition, towards the end I did some super quick spin-ups, upwards of 180RPM. Can this be done only with a cadence sensor (although it will not be exact, but that’s not needed also), or do I need also a speed sensor to make this work? Garmin Canada does not allow to purchase, and can’t find anywhere else. Thanks! I know others were able to connect them to 3rd party apps and that is great for them. Accelerometers measure “deviations from geodesic motion” (essentially deviations from free fall). Or it uses the altimeter? I spend time in both Connect and Strava assigning bikes to new rides. Most of the time. If I look at my previous Polar Vantage V ride on Friday, I don’t see any dropouts (below). plus when stationary sometimes it reads a speed reading which restarts my autopaused ride….not happy! And to compliment that, here’s The Girl’s (my wife’s) list. Maybe, it’s better this way (that’s the last stage of grief by the way, resignation)…, Thanks Gordon, Michael for your replies. You need to measure the wheel you are putting the sensor on. It seems to be a problem at Polar’s end of things. Did you try and pair it as a combined Speed/Cadence sensor, or a standalone Cadence sensor. Or maybe it’s a new chapter in your life, where data is not important and you cycle for the fun of it. Once that’s done, it’s time to pair it up to the devices of your choice. The problem is that all the ANT+/BLE head units have a lousy battery life (e.g. I received my speed sensor 2 yesterday and it is working, thanks a lot for all your information! The old speed sensor when placed on the rear wheel was well known to regularly drop out from connecting to a head unit over a ride meaning a few seconds of auto-pause every once in a while which added up to an irritating amount over longer rides. Speed sensor 2 don’t work reliably at all with M (constant dropping of speed – unusable), while it did work with RWGPS (didn’t try it yet in this year). But I just wouldn’t see a reason to secondarily enable the offline caching bit, since you’d already have that data with the file of your Edge (from the speed sensor no less). That’s a lot better than ANT+ only sensors. That’s pretty awful if Garmin have completely overlooked this. When you’re in a jump, you’re in free fall (well, close to it, there’s still some air resistance). There are (almost) no forces besides gravity acting in a jump, so for the moment there is no noise, and accelerometers are general relativists and don’t recognize the “force” of gravity anyway. If i may ask, does the speed sensor paired with a cycling computer make for a better navigation unit, as in Sharp Bend Warning, or distance to next point calculation? Neither are some trainers. Specifically it tells you not to eat the batteries, and to consult a TV technician if your cadence or speed sensor isn’t working. Doing that the cadence will be switched as well too fit the definition of the sport. YMMV (literally!). It explains how to use a rubber band twelve times. I only go out on the street and sometimes spinning. It won’t sync any longer. There’s a lot of nuance on some of the BT specs that is just more ‘simple’ on ANT+. Then the back wheel, mainly it did not transfer filed, once it did (4 files) but all the files showed zero speed and zero distance. Garmin cadence sensors take a bit of time to wake up. I am using Bontrager’s node for that purpose (i.e. As the Edge does only support biking activities, you have to switch over your run in Garmin Connect. Since I won’t be using GPS indoors, is it even worth finding a way to attach - will the speed … If one is riding a bike with a GPS computer and a Speed Sensor, which is the speed displayed by the computer, the one recorded by the GPS, or the Speed Sensor, and what is uploaded on Garmin Connect? Well, I don’t know what to do and, according to the forum I found, Garmin does not seem to consider regular customers’ problems with the relevant seriousness. It’s unacceptable!! Before speed sensors required you to have a magnet pass by a sensor in order to read the speed but now with the Garmin Speed Sensor 2 thats a thing of the past. I do like the sensors’ magnetless design, but unfortunately will have to return them unless I find a solution (one with ONE phone I mean)…. The only downside I suppose is if you use your bike a lot during the day for errands as I do – this is what your day looks like. Trees, tunnels, and tall buildings are the enemy of GPS-based speed. I am seriously loving the idea of using the Edge 530 on my MTB and I was hoping for a word on these sensors on a technical forest trail. All it does is measure wheel rotations. But, I don’t think that’d be looked kindly upon. And then a few minutes after your bike stops moving, it’ll end the session. Obviously that’d be user configurable, but again for bike commuters it’s one less step than having to start/stop a GPS session. No need for me to open an app on my phone or bring a Garmin GPS device along. It’d honestly depend on if you needed the Bluetooth connectivity side. Replacing the Speed Sensor Battery; Replacing the Cadence Sensor Battery; Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor Specifications; Troubleshooting. Check out Des’s video on the jump metrics: link to youtube.com. Should be just a very cheap solution which can stay mounted all the time on the bike. I struggle to see a scenario where you’d have a bike that has a GPS device on it, but also a speed sensor that you want to routeinly record the offline file as well. I did changed the battery and using Ant+. Go figure. Would these work or do you recommended getting the Wahoo ones instead. Tried pretty much every app I could find: Garmin, Wahoo, Cyclemeter and several others. Only one of them was recognized at any one time, when I tried to connect using my iMac laptop, iphones (3 iPhone 6 SE, 1 iPhone 7 Max, 1 iPhone XR, 1 iPhone 11 Pro) and 1 Samsung Galaxy S8+ (with various apps). But more on my plans a bit later. Moreover, measuring the direction of the acceleration is totally unreliable, if you roll over an obstacle, but not jump, you may get the same readings…. What feedback do you have on durability of the cadence sensor? I have tried several apps, including Wahoo Fitness and it just does not work. To force the next sync just disable /enable Bluetooth on the phone and wait if the circle in gc gets completely green now. Is that right? I have a question, wherein the Edge 1030 FW 8.00 can you do this setting? My friend case is, her MacBook can only either detect KickrSnap or the cadence sensor……. I think that’s mostly because the hardware Garmin has previously they didn’t plan for that. Any ideas? Is there a way to hook this up to a Peloton bike so that I could join swift? The cache function for a speed/cadence is not really useful comparing to caching HR rate in Polar OH1+. If you’ve got a large crank, you’ll use the larger rubber. And it is set at 0.0 mph. Roadies desperately need accurate speed readings and everything seems to be going the wrong way! Mostly it hasn’t in the past due to lack of Bluetooth Smart. Oh, and then there’s a bag with the speed sensor itself. They seem much better than Polar’s own sensors. Personally I don’t have a problem with editing an XML file to force behaviors their UI doesn’t allow, and I would have no problem at reverting the XML file to factory spec before making a support request. It only really works in lab conditions: if your bike is essentially your roommate and your phone coverage is 100% at all times. Looking for the equipment I use day to day? So for cadence control during a high speed interval the display of actual cadence might do. do not report) very short rides (configurable distance) to 3rd party sites, I’d like to see the ability to consolidate all the short distance rides into a single “block”, over a configurable time. So Strava is not clogged with small rides and walks, frustrating my followers . That makes much more sense! Either way. Just like Fitbit’s ‘Connected GPS’ feature’. FWIW, I also have the Wahoo magnetless speed sensor on another bike and tried it on this wheel and had the same issue. Yes. Power fluctuates too much to be a true gage of fade. No problem, here's the platform I use - you can too! However, this is more of a blanket all or nothing thing. Once you’re on the ground again, then you need to worry about all of the other stuff. Do you know if there are any compatibility issues with a SRAM AXS rear derailleur causing interference with the speed sensor 2? I’d think it’s far more common to have a secondary bike (like a commuter bike, cargo bike, etc…) where you do want it recording the offline file (sans-GPS), since you simply don’t record a GPS ride there. Oh and a tip for commute rides synced to Garmin Connect and Strava: commutemarker.com Here you can add commute routes and this site marks the ride automatically as commute, changes the bike used and sets them as private on Strava. I am just thinking that you mentioned above that the on its own, the cycling computer uses GPS to work out the speed/distance but this can be issue if there is no GPS coverage at a given point (mid-ride). But all that you worry about disappears in a jump. Replace the battery if the LED does not flash after two revolutions. But that brings up another question. However, this will connect to just about any ANT+/BLE capable computer, including the recent Sigma ones. You will have to then do a new cal ride. If you’re using Bluetooth you’ll need to de-pair it with your Polar, if ANT+ then that doesn’t matter. My wish is to connect these sensors to the Sufferfest or eventually Zwift apps installed in iPad Pro. Since few days I use the speed sensor 2. ). Jan. Just got a speed sensor 2, and whn connecting it to my edge 510 via ant+ if find that if I have my wheel size set as manual – 622mm, then i get random drops to 5kmh while I’m riding, but when I swap the wheel size to auto its fine, no clue what is going on, just got it yesterday, could this be a problem with my garmin? I’ve often found I have to tweak such numbers, though. Any reason to get Gen 2? Typically when I’ve seen magnetless sensor issues, the wonky is readily apparent in either looking at the files, or the resultant cumulative distances. Then, when a work out is detected with that sensor the bike is automatically added. > Devices such as bike computers or digital displays must not be fitted. great reviews as always – thanks. I fear this might be user error, but I am stumped and ready to to return it. Head units will automatically calibrate from GPS distance if you don’t tell them otherwise, but as I said, they recalibrate on occasion and once in a while get it wrong. Shouldn’t be any issues in terms of rounded back cranks or otherwise, it’s really just a clearance question. Don‘t think it is a matter of faulty sensor. But no real guarantees. the next strange thing i did not expect is why in the evening when the sensor is synching correctly the same day morning ride it is not uploading also the evening ride of the day before… If you’re not seeing a dropout with other apps but just on the Vantage M, it’s probably Polar specifically and maybe the current firmware now? Also note there’s a difference between dual ANT+/BLE, and dual-BLE plus ANT+. Garmin Support Center United Kingdom is where you will find answers to frequently asked questions and resources to help with all of your Garmin products. But the faster I did go (or better the higher the cadence became) the less nervous the sensor became. If anyone else has found a workaround - what’d you do? Hi Ray! Hi, But nonetheless I desired such a gimmick as well. I’m not sure I entirely understand. Any luck pairing and using these with an Apple Watch? In Garmin Connect under bikes it would be quite handy if one could allocate a cadence (or speed) sensor to a bike. I see you have used it successfully on Zwift for cadence sensor but your review didn’t seem to have both used together. My speed data tests were mostly with the Suunto Spartan Trainer. Check out GPS will record speed. Now, I find this not to be true reading your review. OP . I suspect it might not be till Monday that I get a clear answer on that one. Combo package: 010-12845-00. Like the HRM-DUAL, Garmin is basically matching the competition and then adding in a tiny few extras that you’re like ‘Ok, it’s the same price, might as well just get this instead’. And have used it for more than a year now with other apps. It connects fine Edge and even with iPhone, but no can do with Connect. The speed sensor works by detecting the earth’s magnetic field. Sorry, effectively immediate. Hi, Obviously, that’s somewhat imperfect because if I’m talking a 50KM ride, then I don’t truly know which is which. In short, it’ll work better if you move it to the front. If you have any suggestion/help that would be highly appreciated! It sounds like something could be wrong (such as being misconfigured with the wrong wheel circumference). Riding with a speed sensor through a tunnel I learned that some head units, such as the Wahoo Bolt, don’t go with it even GPS signal has been lost. That’s Polar Flow, if using a Polar device. Still searching. 6. Think my written reviews are deep? My previous Garmin sensor used zip ties, and you could add an adhesive backing for ‘irregular’ cranks. Sitting on (I think) 36ishkph I see my garmin 830 reading fluctuate between 0 (which then autopauses) and 44kph! What DOES work, however, is using TWO iPhones (via the Wahoo app). Getting it installed requires either consulting with one of the twelve language iterations in the manual, or, using common sense. Best! Everything ok but.. We see companies often struggle with this, especially in power meters, but even more generally too. The thing is my old garmin cadence seems to have died a few days ago. The official Garmin UK websites says “Available 2nd Quarter 2019” ( see link to buy.garmin.com ). (If you want to get into TrainerRoad or Zwift, you might also want a cadence sensor at minimum.). But I don’t see a way through here either. There’s no way of forcing a recalibration from GPS that I know of when that happens. My 2004 Lemond Revmaster spinner has a solid flywheel which leaves no way to attach the Garmin Speed Sensor 2 to it. Here’s a quick ride again, this time on Zwift via Bluetooth Smart, without any issues. Was about to buy the pack with Speed and Cadence sensor and then read many reports and comments on different websites that the speed and cadence sensor won’t work at same time over bluetooth. Again, for 99% of bikes out there, that won’t be an issue. The sensor works since its LED lights up after a few revolutions of the crank. It also repeats everything twelve times. – The cadence shown on the display of the Edge is half of what you expect, but that is a definition issue (cadence for biking is full turns of the crank per minute, while for running it is number of contacts of both feet to the ground per minute). Your email address will not be published. If so, use a zip tie. Does it happen to broadcast battery state that can be picked up by the Garmin 830 (or similar)? It just registers each rotation of the wheel over time, which is the same no matter how large the hub is, so no change in the accuracy. Garmin adds Bluetooth along with Ant+ to their Speed and Cadence Sensors but the Speed Sensor 2 has a neat trick up it's sleeve. I would have thought that Garmin would have implemented a system for ignoring the speed sensor ride if there is a matching one from a gps unit. Paired for example with wahoo app everything works fine. I tried it with the Vantage V, which is firmware-wise identical to the Vantage M in these respects. Hold it … Hi and thanks for your great Review. You’re not in free fall like in a jump. Hi Ray, keep up the great work, love your stuff. Find a way to have a reliable way to record your effort if like me you’re a heavy commuter with a side dish of week-end rides, where most of your mileage happens in short rides. Or is there a time limitation for the rides to remain on the internal memory?